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KNOTS AND LINES Loop knots will allow you fly to move more naturally than clinch type knots. Wet your knots with saliva before drawing them up. Slippery knots will cinch up harder and won't produce line damaging heat. Replace all monofilament every season. Store monofilament in a cool, dry, dark place (the freezer is excellent). UV rapidly destroys lines. You only need to know how to tie the UNI KNOT and the SURGEON'S KNOT. There are better knots for specific purposes, but these two will do just fine for most applications.

CATCH AND RELEASE FOR THE FUTURE Play your fish quickly. "Land" fish in water as deep as fish is long. Avoid plastic nets, they scrape off protective slime. Grasp fish at base of tail (a wet cloth may help). Keep fingers out of its gills and don't squeeze! Quickly measure length and girth (keep fish in the water). Revive fish by facing it into gentle current or gently swish it to and fro to force water through gills. Release fish only after it strongly swims from your grasp. TOTAL time out of water shouldn't exceed 15 seconds.

FISHING DRY FLIES Dab dry flies with floatant paste or oil. Dry a damp fly by making one or two false casts. Shake soggy flies in a desiccant powder like Loon's Dry Kote. Never put oil or paste on a soggy fly. . . you'll only seal in the wetness. Don't be too quick to dry your fly. Very often a fly meant to be fished dry will actually catch more fish when it sinks!

FISHING WET FLIES Get your fly on the bottom; if you're not losing flies or catching moss, you're not deep enough. Tie a small piece of bright yarn a foot or so from the fly so it's easy to follow (you won't scare fish). Keep your leader almost taught so you can detect the most subtle grab. Most grabs occur at the end of the drift just as the fly swings upward make "blind" strikes at this point.

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